Difference between revisions of "Presentation/Phase 4"

Revision as of 14:14, 1 May 2016

In Phase 4…
• First on the list is to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the wood pieces.
• Second is to pre-drill and screw on additional wood pieces for added structural rigidity.
• Third is to adhere hex nuts on the shaft in order to lock the position of the rotor.
• Fourth on the list is to install ring connectors onto magnet wires where needed.
• Fifth is to screw the ring connectors on the toggle switch and secure the switch to the base with a mounting adhesive.
• Sixth is to install the fan blades on the shaft.
• Seventh is to run the S.H.O. Drive and measure the resistance, inductance, as well as the operational ampere current, rotational speed, temperature, and wind speed.

No hidden batteries

(Top)

Transparency (Protocols) • Before I finish assembly and run some tests, to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the structural wood of the S.H.O. Drive, I will remove the wood and use a metal detector to show that there is no hidden battery. Then after that is established, I will reinstall the wood pieces back on.  S.H.O. Coils (Disassembly) • Before I can remove the wood panels, I need to first pull out the S.H.O. Coils from the installed ceiling hooks so that I can separate the panels from each other.  Wood Panels (Disassembly) • After the coils are removed, I then have to detach the wood panels from the base blocks by disconnecting the screws and hinges. For this I will use pieces from the iWork 53 piece Tool Set by Olympia Tools. • The ceiling hooks can be unscrewed by hand.  Metal Detector (Measuring Devices) • In order to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the S.H.O. Drive wood pieces, I will use the GoerTek Portable Security Scanner that I purchased from GoerTek via Amazon.com

Reinforcements

(Top)

Metal Spring Clamps (Recap) • In Phase 1, in order to hold the wood pieces for pre-drilling, I used the Bessey XM7 3-Inch Metal Spring Clamps that I purchased from Woodcraft. • I will use this again to conduct further pre-drilling for some additional structural reinforcements.  Compact Power Drill (Recap) • In Phase 1, I pre-drilled holes for the brass screws using the 18 Volt Cordless 3/8 in. Drill by Drill Master from Harbor Freight Tools.  Drill Bits (Recap) • In Phase 1, for drilling pilot holes for the brass screws, I used 3/32 in. Titanium Nitride High Speed Steel Drill Bits by Warrior from Harbor Freight Tools.  Spacers (Phase 4 Parts) • To ensure that the bearings stay inside the holes, I will screw in HighPoint Solid Brass Screws that I purchased from Woodcraft (after pre-drilling first) to attach very small spacers over the bearing holes. The spacers came with the Birdhouse kits.  Wide “Wood Shingle” (Phase 4 Parts) • The length of the two ash wood base blocks differ by 1/8”, so I will pre-drill through a “wide wood shingle” onto the end of one of the base blocks, and then I will screw in additional brass screws in order to secure the wide “wood shingle” into place.  X-Acto Knife (Phase 4 Tools) • In order to trim off the excess wood of the wide “wood shingle”, I will use an X-Acto Knife No. 1 with Cap that I purchased from an Artist & Craftsman Supply store.  Narrow “Wood Shingles” (Parts) • Additional brass screws will be used to secure two narrow “wood shingles” between each end of the two base blocks to lock them at a 45 degree tilt at both sides.

Presentation back cover

(Top)

#ShoDrives @ShoDrives Sho.wiki - Drive Replication and Collaboration Site YouTube.com/c/ShoWiki - Watch and Subscribe Site Facebook.com/ShoDrives - Like, Share, and Fan Site

Finishing main unit assembly

(Top)

S.H.O. Drive (Reassembly) • After the test with the metal detector and installing extra wood pieces, I will remove the “narrow shingles”, and then reinstall onto the wood panels the ceiling hooks, hinges, shaft, “narrow shingles”, and finally the two S.H.O. coils.  Hex Nuts (Parts) • I will secure the shaft with half-a-thread’s worth of special-purpose glue called Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242, which I purchased at Lowe’s. • This will hold hex nuts on the shaft adjacent to the outer facings of the bearings.

Connect toggle switch

(Top)

Terminal Rings (Phase 4 Parts) • To connect the magnet wires onto the toggle switch, I will install 10-106 Terminal Rings from Gardner Bender, which I purchased from Amazon.com. • I will crimp these onto the ends of the magnet wire and screw them onto the toggle switch terminals.  Sandpaper (Tools) • To maximize the connection between the terminal rings and the magnet wire, I will sand off the enamel layer at the ends of the wire using 3M 600 Grit sandpaper that I purchased from Lowe’s.  Crimper Tool (Phase 4 Tools) • Using the VISE-GRIP Multi Tool Stripper, Cutter and Crimper that I purchased from IRWIN Tools through Amazon.com, I will crimp the ring connector sleeves on the ends of magnet wires.  Toggle Switch (Phase 4 Parts) • The ring connectors will then be screwed onto a 20A toggle switch. • This is a double-pole, double-throw switch, or DPDT for short.  Terminal Rings (Assembly) • To tighten the screws that will hold the terminal rings onto the toggle switch. I will again use pieces from the iWork 53 piece Tool Set by Olympia Tools.

Toggle settings

(Top)

ON/OFF Settings (Operation) • The DPDT (or double-pole double-throw) switch, purchased from TOOGOO through Amazon.com, has one OFF setting and two ON settings.  OFF Setting (Operation) • When the OFF setting is selected, the S.H.O. coil will be an open circuit. • The two middle terminals or “poles” matching the OFF setting will be connected to the ends of the coil, but nothing else.  On Setting #1 (Operation) • When ON setting #1 is selected, it will simply close the circuit. • The two terminals or “poles” for this setting will be connected together with magnet wire.  On Setting #2 (Operation) • ON setting #2, when selected, may be used to connect the coil to a Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter in series with the coils. • This will be used to measure the Inductance of the S.H.O. Coil Winding.  LC meter (Measuring Devices) • I purchased the Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter from Sinometer via Amazon.com  LC meter (Measuring Devices) • The Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter can measure: • Magnetic Inductance (represented by L) • Electrical Capacitance (represented by C)  On Setting #2 (Operation) • ON setting #2 may also be used to connect the coil to a Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter. • This will be used to measure the Resistance of the S.H.O. Coil Winding.  Milli-ohm Meter (Measuring Devices) • I purchased the Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter from modders_chn via eBay.com  Milli-ohm Meter (Measuring Devices) • The Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter uses the 4-wire method of measuring very small resistances. • The 4-wire method involves passing a current through a resistor and measuring the voltage across the terminals.  On Setting #2 (Operation) • ON setting #2 may also be used to connect the coil to an Extech 411 True-RMS Multimeter. • This will be used to measure the current of the S.H.O. Coil Winding.  True-RMS Multimeter (Measuring Devices) • I purchased the Extech 411 True-RMS Multimeter from Fry’s Electronics.  True-RMS Multimeter (Measuring Devices) • The Extech 411 True-RMS Multimeter will be used calculate the root mean square or RMS of the current & voltage.  True-RMS Multimeter (Measuring Devices) • The heat loss in the winding can be calculated by taking the product of winding resistance and the mean square current.  True-RMS Multimeter (Measuring Devices) • This device does not measure the phase difference between current and voltage. • Therefore, it cannot be used to measure power in a circuit with an inductor, capacitor, or other circuit components which may cause a phase difference between current and voltage. • However, this meter can be used to calculate heat losses and measure induced voltage.

Mounting and connections

(Top)

Mounting the Switch (Assembly) • 3M Scotch Heavy Duty Mounting Tape (½” (or 13mm) wide) will be used to mount the toggle switch onto the rear “narrow shingle”.  Alligator Clip Leads (Equipment) • For better lead connections to On Setting #2, I purchased Heavy Duty 12 AWG - 3 Feet Long DC Power Supply Leads from PS-Mastech via Amazon.com.  Alligator Clip Leads (Equipment) • These leads have a wire size identical to the wire used in the S.H.O. Coil and therefore support a similar amount of current. These leads are gauge 12 on the American Wire Gauge scale. • At one end, they have banana plugs which may be connected to the multimeters which I will be using. • At the other end, these leads have alligator clips which can attach to the toggle switch at On Setting #2.

Load assembly

(Top)

Output Demonstration (Protocols) • One key task is to absorb and demonstrate the mechanical output of the S.H.O. Drive. • To do this demonstration, I will use a propeller, which will transfer out mechanical energy to air, producing wind.  Fan Blades (Phase 4 Parts) • This Automotive cooling fan has 5 blades and has a diameter of 12” (or about 30 cm). • I purchased this item from Flex-a-Lite through Amazon.com • It’s part number 1312.  Washers and Hex Nuts (Parts) • I will secure the 12” (or 30 cm) diameter fan with its 5/8” (or 16 mm) bore hole, through the 5/8” (or 16 mm) diameter rod by compressing it between a pair of zinc-plated washers that I purchased at Lowe’s and a pair of zinc-plated hex nuts that I purchased at Tacoma Screw.  Adjustable Wrench (Phase 4 Tools) • To tighten the hex nuts against the washers and the propeller, I purchased a Kobalt 8-in (about 200 mm) Chrome Vanadium Steel Adjustable Wrench from Lowe’s.

Testing setup and procedure

(Top)

Tachometer (Measuring Devices) • To measure rotation speed, I will use the AGPtek Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer that I purchased from AGPtek through Amazon.com  Tachometer (Tools) • To properly use the AGPtek Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer, I must use the reflective tape that was included with the kit. • This included reflective tape is designed to allow photo tachometers to accurately measure rotational speed.  Compact Disc (Compatibility) • I will apply the reflective tape onto the label side of a CD, which I will then insert over the 5/8” diameter threaded rod. • The diameter of the CD’s center hole is 15mm. As a result, if you take the depth of the threads into account, the CD should hold steady without modifying it. • The CD will be secured onto the shaft with hex nuts.  Plastic Furniture Tips (Phase 4 Parts) • To prevent the ends of the shaft from damaging things, I will cover them with 5/8” (or 16 mm) Black Plastic Furniture Tips from the Hillman Group that I purchased at Lowe’s.  Electrical Tape (Parts) • In order to form a tight grip between the shaft and the Plastic Furniture Tips, I will use the Scotch Professional Grade 35 Red Vinyl Electrical Tape, also from Lowe’s.  Electrical Resistance (Pre-run Testing) • To measure the electrical resistance of the S.H.O. Winding, I will be using the Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter.  Magnetic Inductance (Pre-run Testing) • To measure the magnetic inductance of the S.H.O. Winding as a function of rotor position, I will use the Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter.  Induced Voltage vs. Rotation (Pre-run Testing) • Using the Extech 411 RMS Multimeter and the AGPtek Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer, I will measure the root mean square value of the induced voltage as a function of rotation speed.  Electric Current (Run Testing) • During the test run, I will use the Extech 411 RMS Multimeter to measure the root mean square value of the induced current.  Thermometer (Tools) • To measure the temperature of the coil, I will use the DTQ450X Quick-Read Thermometer from CDN that I purchased through Amazon.com • This thermometer has a range of -40° F to +450° F (or -40° C to +230° C)  Thermometer Accuracy (Pre-run Testing) • I must test the thermometer to see if it takes accurate readings • First, I will test the temperature of the air near the drive motor. • Then, after sanitizing the thermometer with 70% isopropyl alcohol wipes, I will test the temperature under my tongue, which should be about 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit or 37 degrees Centigrade.  Before Temperature (Pre-run Testing) • After sanitizing the thermometer, I will insert the thermometer into one of the flat sections of the S.H.O. Drive Winding. I will also test the other three flat sections. • I will take out the thermometer out during the duration test, and I will set up water and ice samples to test the thermometer with, again sanitizing between measurements.  Duration Run (Run Testing) • I will test a duration run of the drive motor. In this test, I will measure the S.H.O. Drive’s: • Root mean square current • Wind Speed • Air Temperature • Coil Temperature • Rotational Speed  Anemometer (Measuring Equipment) • During the test run, I will measure the air speed in front and rear of the S.H.O. Drive fan, using the OriGlam Digital Anemometer & Thermometer from OriGlam that I purchased through Amazon.com • This anemometer can measure winds between 196 and 4900 ft/min (2.2 and 56 mph) (3.6 and 90 kph).  After Temperature (Post-Run Testing) • After the duration test, I will reinsert the thermometer into the S.H.O. Drive Winding into the same sections tested previously, again, sanitizing between measurements.

April 2016 Presentation

(Top)

I	Introduction Summary of measuring devices, back up and safety equipment, and camcorder (+accessories)

1	Phase 1 Holes, brass hinges, square nuts

2	Phase 2 Neodymium magnets and bearings

3	Phase 3 Spool, coils, and ceiling hooks

4	Phase 4 No hidden batteries, increase rigidity, hex nuts, terminal rings, toggle switch, fan blades, and extended test run

5	Phase 5 Heavy duty basket, S.H.O. Drive insertion, secure meters, and portable extended test run

6	Phase 6 Square tote, plastic spools, protective edge trim, and enclosed extended test run

7	Phase 7 Prepare elevated test platform, outdoor test setup, camcorder hookup to portable power, and outdoor extended test run

Site map

HQ ● Glossary ● April 2016 Presentation