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| − | ==Introduction: Summary of measuring devices, back up and safety equipment, and camcorder (+accessories)==
| + | |title=April 2016 Presentation @ Sho Drives Wiki |
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| − | |width=240 | + | |keywords=electricity,magnetism,motor,generator |
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 001 of 176.png||'''Let’s Build The<br>S.H.O. Drive'''<br>• This <sup><big>'''''is'''''</big></sup> a guide to a series of videos where I will construct the world’s first S.H.O. Drive. This will be the first drive motor in the world to have a coil that looks like an S, or an H, or an O, depending on which side you look from. S.H.O. also stands for “Side Hung Over”. What good is this for? The best way to know is to build one yourself and show it! So let’s begin!
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 002 of 176.png||'''Measuring Devices'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• This project involves many measuring devices, including analog and digital thermometers, a laser tachometer, a Milli-Ohm meter, an RMS meter, a LC meter, an Anemometer, a magnetic pole detector, and a metal detector. | + | |
| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 003 of 176.png||'''Rechargeable Batteries'''<br>''(Energy)''<br>• Some of these devices come with non-rechargeable batteries. When these run out, they will need to be replaced.<br>• Where possible, rechargeable batteries will be used after the old batteries are used up.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 004 of 176.png||'''Non-Rechargeable Batteries'''<br>''(Energy)''<br>• Some of the measuring devices require watch-type batteries, so for these devices, non-rechargeable batteries will be used.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 005 of 176.png||'''Fuses'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• Most multimeters have built-in fuses. These fuses are designed to burn out when overheated due to excessive current.<br>• So as a matter of preparation, I have purchased compatible replacement fuses.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 006 of 176.png||'''20 Amp Fuses'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• For 20 Amp protection, I purchased a 2-pack of Bussmann BP/ABC-20 20 Amp Fast Blow Fuses from Bussmann via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 007 of 176.png||'''200 Milliamp Fuses'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• For 200 mA protection, I purchased a 5-pack of Bussmann GMA 200mA Fast-Blow Fuses from Divine Lighting via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 008 of 176.png||'''Fire Extinguisher'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• In a worst-case scenario, the project may catch on fire due to overheating.<br>• To reduce the losses associated with such a fire, I must have a fire extinguisher at hand.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 009 of 176.png||'''Fire Extinguisher'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• So for basic safety requirements, I purchased the Amerex B500, 5lb ABC Dry Chemical Class A B C Fire Extinguisher from Amerex via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 010 of 176.png||'''Safety Gear'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• For safety, I purchased SAS safety goggles, an SAS First Aid Kit, and FastCap Skins Gloves, which I found in extra large.<br>• I purchased these and more at a wood-working specialty store called Woodcraft.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 011 of 176.png||'''Safety Gear'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• Since my wood-working operations will be limited to sanding and drilling small holes and grooves, I will use a Western Safety Dust and Particle Mask so as to not inhale any saw dust.<br>• I purchased this from a Harbor Freight Tools store.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 012 of 176.png||'''Visual Evidence'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• After the S.H.O. Drive is built, tests will follow.<br>• The plan is to run extended duration tests, some which will run for hours, and others for days.<br>• An appropriate video recording device is required to provide a visual record for these tests as they happen.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 013 of 176.png||'''Camcorder'''<br>''(Recording)''<br>• To provide evidence for these tests, I have purchased a Canon VIXIA HF R60 Camcorder from Canon via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 014 of 176.png||'''Camcorder'''<br>''(Recording)''<br>• This camcorder can record up to 12 hours at normal recording speed and also has a time-lapse function to record video over several days, or more.<br>• It can capture video at 60 progressive frames per second.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 015 of 176.png||'''Memory Card'''<br>''(Recording)''<br>• In order to record and save very long videos, I purchased the Transcend 128GB SDXC Class 10 UHS-1 Flash Memory Card from Transcend via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 016 of 176.png||'''Adjustable Clamp Mount'''<br>''(Recording)''<br>• To record video at the desired angle, I have purchased the 13.4" Smatree Adjustable Jaws Flex Clamp Mount from Smatree via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 017 of 176.png||'''Wide Angle Lens Kit'''<br>''(Recording)''<br>• In order to capture a wider angle of view in the video, I purchased a Wide Angle Lens Kit from ButterflyPhoto via Amazon.com<br>• The included .43x Wide Angle Lens provides a better approximation of human vision.
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| − | [[#toctitle|Click here if you need to jump back to the table of contents!]] | + | {{DISPLAYTITLE:April 2016 Presentation}} |
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| + | [[File:Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 001 of 176.png|thumb|link=File:Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive!.pptx|<div style="float: right">[http://www.sho.wiki/images/Let%27s_Build_the_S.H.O._Drive%21.pptx ''Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive!.pptx''] (68 MB)</div>]] |
| − | ==Phase 1: Holes, brass hinges, square nuts==
| + | '''Let’s Build The S.H.O. Drive!'''<br>• This <sup><big>'''''is'''''</big></sup> a guide to a series of videos where I will construct the world’s first S.H.O. Drive.<br>• This will be the first drive motor in the world to have a coil that looks like an S, or an H, or an O, depending on which side you look from.<br>• S.H.O. also stands for “Side Hung Over”.<br>• What good is this for? The best way to know is to build one yourself and show it! So let’s begin! |
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 018 of 176.png||'''In Phase 1…'''<br>• First on the list is to create holes which will hold bearings for the S.H.O. Drive.<br>• Second is to install brass hinges which will connect the wood panels to the wood base.<br>• And third is to install square nuts onto the shaft.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 019 of 176.png||'''2 Barn Birdhouse Kits'''<br>''(Phase 1 Parts)''<br>• The wood panels I will be using will come from 2 SawDust Bros. Birdhouse Kits which I obtained from Woodcraft.<br>• Why birdhouse kits? Well each birdhouse kit is packed with many pieces of wood of various sizes, which I may use in the future.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 020 of 176.png||'''Saving Time'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• But the main reason why I purchased two Birdhouse kits was for the two front panels, which have holes that are nearly the right size for the project.<br>• I will use the front panels from each kit as support structures to carry the weight of the bearings, rotor, and conductive copper coils.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 021 of 176.png||'''Hole Size'''<br>''(Compatibility)''<br>• Each front panel already has a conveniently placed 1½” (or about 38 mm) hole which I will expand by 1/8” (or about 3 mm) to hold the bearings.<br>• The bearings will be introduced in Phase 2.<br>• Each front panel has a base side measurement of 6” (or about 150 mm). Also, they have a thickness of ½” (or about 13 mm).
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 022 of 176.png||'''Circle Template'''<br>''(Phase 1 Tools)''<br>• To mark the dimensions for the 1 5/8 ” (or about 41 mm) bearing holes, I bought a 42 circle template sheet by Timely from a specialty store called Artist & Craftsman Supply.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 023 of 176.png||'''Power Drill'''<br>''(Phase 1 Tools)''<br>• To expand the holes for the bearings, I purchased an inexpensive rotary tool from Ferm via Amazon.com.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 024 of 176.png||'''Portable Work Bench'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• I purchased from Black & Decker the WM125 Workmate through Amazon.com, which is foldable and has an adjustable width.<br>• The clamping wood pieces have a groove which, fortuitously, can hold the depth guide of the power drill. So this work bench will effectively function as an inexpensive “router table”.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 025 of 176.png||'''Dremel Accessory Set'''<br>''(Phase 1 Tools)''<br>• In order to finish the holes nicely to size, I will attach items from the Dremel 687-01 General Purpose Accessory Set I purchased at Fry’s Electronics.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 026 of 176.png||'''Sanding Bands & Drum'''<br>''(Phase 1 Tools)''<br>• The Dremel tools from the kit that I will use are the 432 Sanding Bands and the 407 Sanding Drum.<br>• The sanding area will be ½” (or about 13 mm) thick, which will be perfect for sanding into the ½” (or about 13 mm) thick wood panels which will hold the bearings.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 027 of 176.png||'''Plywood Surface'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• To make better use of the workbench for the rest of the project, I will cover the top with two pieces of Baltic Birch plywood from Woodcraft:<br>• The side lengths are 12” (or about 30 cm)<br>• The thickness of each is 1/2” (or about 13 mm)
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 028 of 176.png||'''C-Clamps'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• To hold the plywood to the workbench, I will use 3 in. Industrial C-Clamps that I obtained from a Harbor Freight Tools store.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 029 of 176.png||'''Ash Wood Blocks'''<br>''(Phase 1 Parts)''<br>• I also have two separate Ash wood blocks, also from Woodcraft that are about 2 inches by 2 inches thick. That’s about 50 millimeters on each side. Their length is about 8 inches long, or about 200 millimeters. These blocks will serve as the “feet” of the S.H.O. Drive.<br>• If you’re wondering what Ash wood is used for, it’s a wood often used in baseball bats.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 030 of 176.png||'''Brass Hinges'''<br>''(Phase 1 Parts)''<br>• So how should I attach these panels to the base blocks? Well I could simply glue and nail these panels to the base like a normal person. But here I will do something different. <br>• From Woodcraft, I purchased these brass hinges, which I will use to attach the panels onto the ash wood blocks.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 031 of 176.png||'''Transparency'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• I am a bit extra-concerned about the craftsmanship of this effort, and it would obviously be simpler to glue and nail the pieces together. But I place more value in reducing the possible ways that are available to “trick” this device.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 032 of 176.png||'''Transparency'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• Furthermore, the device, when completed will be left uncovered and exposed to the surrounding elements and operated in multiple environments to reduce the number ways to trick this device.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 033 of 176.png||'''Transparency'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• I do want this device to be well-built enough to operate even when transporting it, to better distinguish it from rather immobile devices which, who knows, could be powered by an object hiding behind a wall or some other structure in the room.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 034 of 176.png||'''Metal Spring Clamps'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• Before drilling the pilot holes for the brass screws, I will clamp the Ash wood base blocks with Bessey XM7 3-Inch Metal Spring Clamps that I purchased from Woodcraft.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 035 of 176.png||'''Power Drill'''<br>''(Recap)''<br>• Earlier in this construction Phase, I will have used a rotary tool from Ferm and the Dremel 407 Sanding Drum to make neat circular holes for the bearings.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 036 of 176.png||'''Compact Power Drill'''<br>''(Tools)''<br>• However, to drill pilot holes for the brass screws, I will use an 18 Volt Cordless 3/8 in. Drill by Drill Master from Harbor Freight Tools. 3/8 in. is about 9.5 millimeters.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 037 of 176.png||'''Drill Bits'''<br>''(Tools)''<br>• I also purchased a set of 3/32 in. Titanium Nitride High Speed Steel Drill Bits by Warrior from Harbor Freight Tools.<br>• These will allow to me drill pilot holes into the Ash wood base blocks for the screws.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 038 of 176.png||'''Brass Screws'''<br>''(Parts)''<br>• After drilling the pilot holes, I will screw the hinges tight with HighPoint Solid Brass Screws that I purchased from Woodcraft.<br>• These are size #6 so they have a diameter of 5/16 in. (or about 8 mm) measured at the shank. The shank is the straight section next to the head of each screw.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 039 of 176.png||'''Screw Driver Set'''<br>''(Tools)''<br>• To tighten the screws through the brass brackets which connect the wood panels to the wood base, I purchased an iWork 53 piece Tool Set by Olympia Tools from Fry’s Electronics.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 040 of 176.png||'''Square Nuts and Rod'''<br>''(Phase 1 Parts)''<br>• And finally, the simplest task in Phase 1 is to install these threaded square nuts onto a threaded steel rod.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 041 of 176.png||'''Square Nuts and Rod'''<br>''(Phase 1 Parts)''<br>• These are zinc plated and have a fitting diameter of 5/8” (or about 16 mm) and have 11 threads per inch (11 TPI). I obtained these from Tacoma Screw.<br>• Their diameter matches the size for the bore hole of the fan, which I will describe in further detail in Phase 4.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 042 of 176.png||'''Neo Magnets'''<br>''(Compatibility)''<br>• These square nuts have a side length of 1” (or 25.4 mm). This is useful because the very strong Neodymium magnets that I will use for this project have imperial measurements whose thickness is ½” (or 12.7 mm). So these magnets will bond straight and level with the square nuts solely through their magnetic attraction, and no glue will be necessary on the magnets themselves.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 043 of 176.png||'''Bonding the Square Nuts'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• I will secure the position of the square nuts onto the shaft with a special-purpose glue called Loctite Threadlocker Red 271, which I purchased at Lowe’s.<br>• This is necessary so that the torque applied to magnet will transfer to the shaft.
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| − | ==Phase 2: Neodymium magnets and bearings==
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 044 of 176.png||'''In Phase 2'''<br>• First on the list is to assemble a rotor of neodymium magnets onto the shaft.<br>• Second on the list is to insert the rotor through the bearings securely into the disassembled wooden panels.<br>• And third is to reattach the wood panels back onto the wood base blocks.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 045 of 176.png||'''Neodymium Magnets'''<br>''(Phase 2 Parts)''<br>• We will need no windings on the rotor of the S.H.O. Drive. Instead the rotor of the S.H.O. Drive will be built using very strong magnets.<br>• These magnets are an alloy of three atomic elements:<br>• Neodymium (or Nd) (the 60th atomic element)<br>• Boron (or B) (the 5th atomic element)<br>• Iron (or Fe) (the 26th atomic element)
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 046 of 176.png||'''Neodymium Magnets'''<br>''(Phase 2 Parts)''<br>• These Neodymium magnets are from Magnet4less.com and are pound-for-pound some of the strongest permanent magnets that you yourself can buy on the market today.<br>• These are often used in making wind turbine generators.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 047 of 176.png||'''Neodymium Magnets'''<br>''(Phase 2 Parts)''<br>• Because these permanent magnets possess a stronger magnetic field, they will exert stronger magnetic forces on currents in S.H.O. coil.<br>• In turn, the current in the wires will be able to exert stronger magnetic forces on these permanent magnets.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 048 of 176.png||'''Securing the Shaft'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• To secure the shaft into place, I will thread some extra square nuts temporarily onto the shaft and clamp them down onto the Black & Decker Workmate with the Bessey XM7 3-Inch Metal Spring Clamp that I obtained from inside a Woodcraft store.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 049 of 176.png||'''Magnetic Pole Detector'''<br>''(Measuring Equipment)''<br>• Before I attempt to attach the magnets to the rotor, I will identify the north pole of each magnet with a Magnetic Pole Detector that I purchased from Magnet4Less.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 050 of 176.png||'''Magnetic Rotor'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• 20 Large Neodymium magnets with dimensions of 3/2” x 3/4” x 1/2” (or about 38mm x 19mm x 13mm) will be stacked like Jenga blocks to form the rotor.<br>• 8 Small Neodymium magnets with dimensions of 3/4” x 1/4” x 1/2” (or about 19mm x 6mm x 13mm) will be stacked in between the large Neodymium magnets.<br>• Together these will form a flush fit around the 3/2”x1”x1” (or about 38mm x 25mm x 25mm) square nut assembly, resulting in a magnetic rotor assembly measuring 6” (or about 150mm) long with square poles faces measuring 3/2” (or 38mm) a side.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 051 of 176.png||'''Wood Panels'''<br>''(Disassembly)''<br>• I will unscrew the hinges off of the wood panels, enabling insertion of the shaft and bearings into the panel holes.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 052 of 176.png||'''Bearings'''<br>''(Phase 2 Parts)''<br>• I ordered shielded ball bearings from VXB at Amazon.com. These bearings are rated as having electric motor quality and will carry the weight of the shaft. <br>• These bearings should fit snuggly into the holes carved into the wood panels.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 053 of 176.png||'''Inserting the Rotor'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• After that, I will insert the rotor assembly, through the installed bearings.<br>• Then I will fasten the wood panels back onto to the base blocks.
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| − | ==Phase 3: Spool, coils, and ceiling hooks==
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 054 of 176.png||'''In Phase 3…'''<br>• First on the list is to make a custom rectangular spool for winding copper wire.<br>• Second is to make the two S.H.O. coils by winding copper wire around the rectangular spool, and then carefully (and separately) bending each of these coils into the shape of an S.<br>• And third is to install each completed S.H.O. coil onto the ceiling hooks to be installed on the wood panels.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 055 of 176.png||'''Magnet Wires'''<br>''(Phase 3 Parts)''<br>• The coils will be made out of a pair of copper wire spools I purchased from Tech-Fixx through Ebay.com designed for use in electromagnets.<br>• These are known as magnet wires.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 056 of 176.png||'''Magnet Wires'''<br>''(Phase 3 Parts)''<br>• These are size 12 gauge on the American Wire Gauge scale. Each coil has approximately 100 feet (or 30 meters) of wire, and together they will form a ½” (or 13 mm) thick bundle of copper with a combined resistance of approximately 0.3 ohms, or less than 1/3rd of an ohm.<br>• These Essex Soderon 155 wires have a temperature rating of 311 degrees Fahrenheit or 155 degrees Centigrade.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 057 of 176.png||'''Hole Diameter'''<br>''(Compatibility)''<br>• The magnet wire came with spools whose hole diameter fits well with a 5/8” diameter threaded rod, which in turn can also fit holes in the Black & Decker WM125 Workmate. So I will use this to my advantage when unwinding these spools.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 058 of 176.png||'''S.H.O. Drive'''<br>''(Design)''<br>• Unlike any other drive motor in on the market today, the S.H.O. Drive will possess a pair of rectangular conductive windings each folded in such a way to look like the letter S, the letter H, or the letter O, depending how on viewed.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 059 of 176.png||'''Custom Spool'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• Each copper spool will be wound into a rectangle winding with inside dimensions of 24” by 2¼” (or 610 mm by 57 mm).<br>• Then each winding will be carefully folded into the final form of the S.H.O. coil.<br>• Since a spool of these dimensions will be very hard to find on the market, if it exists at all, I will have to make it custom.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 060 of 176.png||'''Mailing Tube'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• The spool will be made out of a 25” (or about 635 mm) long section of a cardboard mailing tube. Pairs of notches ½” (or about 13 mm) deep will be cut into each end, and the wire will be wound through the resulting 24” by 2¼” (or about 610 mm by 57 mm) inner perimeter.<br>• The tube originally contained square acrylic tubes I ordered from Plastic-Craft (Phase 7).
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 061 of 176.png||'''Nylon Fasteners'''<br>''(Phase 3 Tools)''<br>• To keep the copper winding bundle tight when curving it to the desired S-curve, several Hillman 3/8" Nylon Cable Clamps from Lowes will be fastened temporarily on the bundle using Hillman Nylon 10-24 Wingnuts and Screws also from Lowe’s.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 062 of 176.png||'''Curved Ruler'''<br>''(Tools)''<br>• I must ensure that the long side of the 24”x2¼” conductive winding has the correct form of S curve.<br>• So I will be using a 24”(or 610 mm) Flexible Curved Ruler by Staedtler that I purchased from inside an Artist & Craftsman Supply store.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 063 of 176.png||'''S.H.O. Coils'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• The two S.H.O. Coils will be spread apart at the middle section of the S curve to make space for the shaft in between.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 064 of 176.png||'''Curved Ruler'''<br>''(Tools)''<br>• The 12 American Wire Gauge copper wire is significantly rigid by itself, and it will be even more so when approximately 22 turns of such wire are bundled together in each S.H.O. coil<br>• Therefore I have used the 24” (or 610 mm) Flexible Curved Ruler by Staedtler, which is stiff in its own right, to trace various models for the S Curve of the S.H.O. Coils.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 065 of 176.png||'''Visualis Electromagnetism'''<br>''(Software)''<br>• To digitally render the optimized shape for the S.H.O. coils, I used Microsoft Excel to overlay an XY plot chart over a scan of a desired model for the S Curve and adjusted the X and Y values to match the curve.<br>• Then using Excel Functions, I produced the code for a<br>•.viz file which I imported into Visualis Electromagnetism (from visualis-physics.com).
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 066 of 176.png||'''Tubing Bender'''<br>''(Phase 3 Tools)''<br>• To form the S curves of the S.H.O. Coils, I will use a 1/4”-3/8” Tubing Bender by Pittsburgh from Harbor Freight Tools.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 067 of 176.png||'''Tubing Bender'''<br>''(Phase 3 Tools)''<br>• To hold the tubing bender to the workbench, I will use 3 in. Industrial C-Clamps that I obtained from a Harbor Freight Tools store.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 068 of 176.png||'''Ceiling Hooks'''<br>''(Phase 3 Parts)''<br>• To hold the winding into the desired configuration, I purchased 7/8” vinyl-coated ceiling hooks from Arrow Hardware through Amazon.com.<br>• These hooks are about the right size to hold each winding separately. They can also be turned as needed to conform to the S curves of the S.H.O. coils.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 069 of 176.png||'''Wood Panels'''<br>''(Disassembly)''<br>• Before I can drill pilot holes onto the wood panels for the ceiling hooks, I must unscrew the hinges from the wood panels, set aside the wood base blocks, and then pull out the panels off the bearings.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 070 of 176.png||'''Ceiling hooks'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• To drill pilot holes for the ceiling hooks, I will again use the 18 Volt Cordless 3/8 in. Drill by Drill Master that I purchased inside a Harbor Freight Tools store.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 071 of 176.png||'''Bundle Diameter'''<br>''(Compatibility)''<br>• Each of the two S.H.O. Coils should have a bundled cross-section of about 3/8” inch (or 10 mm) in diameter consisting of approximately 22 turns of 12 American Wire Gauge (or 2 mm diameter) wire.<br>• The openings in the ceiling hooks are 1/3” (or 8 mm) across. Therefore, the coils will be securely held into place by the hooks.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 072 of 176.png||'''Electrical Tape'''<br>''(Parts)''<br>• To provide an additional electrical barrier and thermal protection between the windings and the hooks, I will be using Scotch Professional Grade 35 Red Vinyl Electrical Tape that I purchased at Lowe’s.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 073 of 176.png||'''Drill Bits'''<br>''(Phase 3 Tools)''<br>• I have purchased a set of 7/64 in. Titanium Nitride High Speed Steel Drill Bits by Warrior from Harbor Freight Tools.<br>• These will allow to me drill pilot holes into the wood panels for the ceiling hooks.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 074 of 176.png||'''S.H.O. Coils'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• After I make the S.H.O coils and install the ceiling hooks, I will slide the wood panels back on the bearings, and then screw them back onto the base hinges.<br>• Then I will insert the S.H.O. Coils into the ceiling hooks.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 075 of 176.png||'''Wire Connector & Sandpaper'''<br>''(Phase 3 Parts & Tools)''<br>• In order to connect the coils together in series, I will be using Utilitech Plastic Standard Wire Connectors (Item no. 48630) and 3M 600 Grit sandpaper from Lowe’s.
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| − | ==Phase 4: No hidden batteries, increase rigidity, hex nuts, terminal rings, toggle switch, fan blades, and extended test run==
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 076 of 176.png||'''In Phase 4…'''<br>• First on the list is to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the wood pieces.<br>• Second is to pre-drill and screw on additional wood pieces for added structural rigidity.<br>• Third is to adhere hex nuts on the shaft in order to lock the position of the rotor.<br>• Fourth on the list is to install ring connectors onto magnet wires where needed.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 077 of 176.png||'''In Phase 4…'''<br>• Fifth is to screw the ring connectors on the toggle switch and secure the switch to the base with a mounting adhesive.<br>• Sixth is to install the fan blades on the shaft.<br>• Seventh is to run the S.H.O. Drive and measure the resistance, inductance, as well as the operational ampere current, rotational speed, temperature, and wind speed.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 078 of 176.png||'''Transparency'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• Before I finish assembly and run some tests, to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the structural wood of the S.H.O. Drive, I will remove the wood and use a metal detector to show that there is no hidden battery. Then after that is established, I will reinstall the wood pieces back on.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 079 of 176.png||'''S.H.O. Coils'''<br>''(Disassembly)''<br>• Before I can remove the wood panels, I need to first pull out the S.H.O. Coils from the installed ceiling hooks so that I can separate the panels from each other.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 080 of 176.png||'''Wood Panels'''<br>''(Disassembly)''<br>• After the coils are removed, I then have to detach the wood panels from the base blocks by disconnecting the screws and hinges. For this I will use pieces from the iWork 53 piece Tool Set by Olympia Tools.<br>• The ceiling hooks can be unscrewed by hand.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 081 of 176.png||'''Metal Detector'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• In order to show that there are no hidden batteries inside the S.H.O. Drive wood pieces, I will use the GoerTek Portable Security Scanner that I purchased from GoerTek via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 082 of 176.png||'''Metal Spring Clamps'''<br>''(Recap)''<br>• In Phase 1, in order to hold the wood pieces for pre-drilling, I used the Bessey XM7 3-Inch Metal Spring Clamps that I purchased from Woodcraft.<br>• I will use this again to conduct further pre-drilling for some additional structural reinforcements.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 083 of 176.png||'''Compact Power Drill'''<br>''(Recap)''<br>• In Phase 1, I pre-drilled holes for the brass screws using the 18 Volt Cordless 3/8 in. Drill by Drill Master from Harbor Freight Tools.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 084 of 176.png||'''Drill Bits'''<br>''(Recap)''<br>• In Phase 1, for drilling pilot holes for the brass screws, I used 3/32 in. Titanium Nitride High Speed Steel Drill Bits by Warrior from Harbor Freight Tools.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 085 of 176.png||'''Spacers'''<br>''(Phase 4 Parts)''<br>• To ensure that the bearings stay inside the holes, I will screw in HighPoint Solid Brass Screws that I purchased from Woodcraft (after pre-drilling first) to attach very small spacers over the bearing holes. The spacers came with the Birdhouse kits.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 086 of 176.png||'''Wide “Wood Shingle”'''<br>''(Phase 4 Parts)''<br>• The length of the two ash wood base blocks differ by 1/8”, so I will pre-drill through a “wide wood shingle” onto the end of one of the base blocks, and then I will screw in additional brass screws in order to secure the wide “wood shingle” into place.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 087 of 176.png||'''X-Acto Knife'''<br>''(Phase 4 Tools)''<br>• In order to trim off the excess wood of the wide “wood shingle”, I will use an X-Acto Knife No. 1 with Cap that I purchased from an Artist & Craftsman Supply store.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 088 of 176.png||'''Narrow “Wood Shingles”'''<br>''(Parts)''<br>• Additional brass screws will be used to secure two narrow “wood shingles” between each end of the two base blocks to lock them at a 45 degree tilt at both sides.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 089 of 176.png||'''#ShoDrives<br>@ShoDrives<br>Sho.wiki''' - ''Drive Replication and Collaboration Site''<br>'''YouTube.com/c/ShoWiki''' - ''Watch and Subscribe Site''<br>'''Facebook.com/ShoDrives''' - ''Like, Share, and Fan Site''
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 090 of 176.png||'''S.H.O. Drive'''<br>''(Reassembly)''<br>• After the test with the metal detector and installing extra wood pieces, I will remove the “narrow shingles”, <sup><big>'''''and then'''''</big></sup> reinstall onto the wood panels the ceiling hooks, hinges, shaft, “narrow shingles”, and finally the two S.H.O. coils.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 091 of 176.png||'''Hex Nuts'''<br>''(Parts)''<br>• I will secure the shaft with half-a-thread’s worth of special-purpose glue called Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242, which I purchased at Lowe’s.<br>• This will hold hex nuts on the shaft adjacent to the outer facings of the bearings.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 092 of 176.png||'''Terminal Rings'''<br>''(Phase 4 Parts)''<br>• To connect the magnet wires onto the toggle switch, I will install 10-106 Terminal Rings from Gardner Bender, which I purchased from Amazon.com.<br>• I will crimp these onto the ends of the magnet wire and screw them onto the toggle switch terminals.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 093 of 176.png||'''Sandpaper'''<br>''(Tools)''<br>• To maximize the connection between the terminal rings and the magnet wire, I will sand off the enamel layer at the ends of the wire using 3M 600 Grit sandpaper that I purchased from Lowe’s.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 094 of 176.png||'''Crimper Tool'''<br>''(Phase 4 Tools)''<br>• Using the VISE-GRIP Multi Tool Stripper, Cutter and Crimper that I purchased from IRWIN Tools through Amazon.com, I will crimp the ring connector sleeves on the ends of magnet wires.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 095 of 176.png||''' Toggle Switch'''<br>''(Phase 4 Parts)''<br>• The ring connectors will then be screwed onto a 20A toggle switch.<br>• This is a double-pole, double-throw switch, or DPDT for short.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 096 of 176.png||'''Terminal Rings'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• To tighten the screws that will hold the terminal rings onto the toggle switch. I will again use pieces from the iWork 53 piece Tool Set by Olympia Tools.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 097 of 176.png||'''ON/OFF Settings'''<br>''(Operation)''<br>• The DPDT (or double-pole double-throw) switch, purchased from TOOGOO through Amazon.com, has one OFF setting and two ON settings.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 098 of 176.png||'''OFF Setting'''<br>''(Operation)''<br>• When the OFF setting is selected, the S.H.O. coil will be an open circuit.<br>• The two middle terminals or “poles” matching the OFF setting will be connected to the ends of the coil, but nothing else.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 099 of 176.png||'''On Setting #1'''<br>''(Operation)''<br>• When ON setting #1 is selected, it will simply close the circuit.<br>• The two terminals or “poles” for this setting will be connected together with magnet wire.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 100 of 176.png||'''On Setting #2'''<br>''(Operation)''<br>• ON setting #2, when selected, may be used to connect the coil to a Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter in series with the coils.<br>• This will be used to measure the Inductance of the S.H.O. Coil Winding.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 101 of 176.png||'''LC meter'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• I purchased the Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter from Sinometer via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 102 of 176.png||'''LC meter'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• The Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter can measure:<br>• Magnetic Inductance (represented by L)• Electrical Capacitance (represented by C)
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 103 of 176.png||'''On Setting #2'''<br>''(Operation)''<br>• ON setting #2 may also be used to connect the coil to a Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter.<br>• This will be used to measure the Resistance of the S.H.O. Coil Winding.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 104 of 176.png||'''Milli-ohm Meter'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• I purchased the Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter from modders_chn via eBay.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 105 of 176.png||'''Milli-ohm Meter'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• The Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter uses the 4-wire method of measuring very small resistances.<br>• The 4-wire method involves passing a current through a resistor and measuring the voltage across the terminals.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 106 of 176.png||'''On Setting #2'''<br>''(Operation)''<br>• ON setting #2 may also be used to connect the coil to an Extech 411 True-RMS Multimeter.<br>• This will be used to measure the current of the S.H.O. Coil Winding.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 107 of 176.png||'''True-RMS Multimeter'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• I purchased the Extech 411 True-RMS Multimeter from Fry’s Electronics.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 108 of 176.png||'''True-RMS Multimeter'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• The Extech 411 True-RMS Multimeter will be used calculate the root mean square or RMS of the current & voltage.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 109 of 176.png||'''True-RMS Multimeter'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• The heat loss in the winding can be calculated by taking the product of winding resistance and the mean square current.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 110 of 176.png||'''True-RMS Multimeter'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• This device does not measure the phase difference between current and voltage.<br>• Therefore, it cannot be used to measure power in a circuit with an inductor, capacitor, or other circuit components which may cause a phase difference between current and voltage.<br>• However, this meter can be used to calculate heat losses and measure induced voltage.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 111 of 176.png||'''Mounting the Switch'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• 3M Scotch Heavy Duty Mounting Tape (½” (or 13mm) wide) will be used to mount the toggle switch onto the rear “narrow shingle”.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 112 of 176.png||'''Alligator Clip Leads'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• For better lead connections to On Setting #2, I purchased Heavy Duty 12 AWG - 3 Feet Long DC Power Supply Leads from PS-Mastech via Amazon.com.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 113 of 176.png||'''Alligator Clip Leads'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• These leads have a wire size identical to the wire used in the S.H.O. Coil and therefore support a similar amount of current. These leads are gauge 12 on the American Wire Gauge scale.<br>• At one end, they have banana plugs which may be connected to the multimeters which I will be using.<br>• At the other end, these leads have alligator clips which can attach to the toggle switch at On Setting #2.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 114 of 176.png||'''Output Demonstration'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• One key task is to absorb and demonstrate the mechanical output of the S.H.O. Drive.<br>• To do this demonstration, I will use a propeller, which will transfer out mechanical energy to air, producing wind.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 115 of 176.png||'''Fan Blades'''<br>''(Phase 4 Parts)''<br>• This Automotive cooling fan has 5 blades and has a diameter of 12” (or about 30 cm).<br>• I purchased this item from Flex-a-Lite through Amazon.com <br>• It’s part number 1312.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 116 of 176.png||'''Washers and Hex Nuts'''<br>''(Parts)''<br>• I will secure the 12” (or 30 cm) diameter fan with its 5/8” (or 16 mm) bore hole, through the 5/8” (or 16 mm) diameter rod by compressing it between a pair of zinc-plated washers that I purchased at Lowe’s and a pair of zinc-plated hex nuts that I purchased at Tacoma Screw.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 117 of 176.png||'''Adjustable Wrench'''<br>''(Phase 4 Tools)''<br>• To tighten the hex nuts against the washers and the propeller, I purchased a Kobalt 8-in (about 200 mm) Chrome Vanadium Steel Adjustable Wrench from Lowe’s.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 118 of 176.png||'''Tachometer'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• To measure rotation speed, I will use the AGPtek Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer that I purchased from AGPtek through Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 119 of 176.png||'''Tachometer'''<br>''(Tools)''<br>• To properly use the AGPtek Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer, I must use the reflective tape that was included with the kit.<br>• This included reflective tape is designed to allow photo tachometers to accurately measure rotational speed.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 120 of 176.png||'''Compact Disc'''<br>''(Compatibility)''<br>• I will apply the reflective tape onto the label side of a CD, which I will then insert over the 5/8” diameter threaded rod.<br>• The diameter of the CD’s center hole is 15mm. As a result, if you take the depth of the threads into account, the CD should hold steady without modifying it.<br>• The CD will be secured onto the shaft with hex nuts.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 121 of 176.png||'''Plastic Furniture Tips'''<br>''(Phase 4 Parts)''<br>• To prevent the ends of the shaft from damaging things, I will cover them with 5/8” (or 16 mm) Black Plastic Furniture Tips from the Hillman Group that I purchased at Lowe’s.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 122 of 176.png||'''Electrical Tape'''<br>''(Parts)''<br>• In order to form a tight grip between the shaft and the Plastic Furniture Tips, I will use the Scotch Professional Grade 35 Red Vinyl Electrical Tape, also from Lowe’s.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 123 of 176.png||'''Electrical Resistance'''<br>''(Pre-run Testing)''<br>• To measure the electrical resistance of the S.H.O. Winding, I will be using the Vichy VC480C+ Digital Milli-ohm Meter.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 124 of 176.png||'''Magnetic Inductance'''<br>''(Pre-run Testing)''<br>• To measure the magnetic inductance of the S.H.O. Winding as a function of rotor position, I will use the Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 125 of 176.png||'''Induced Voltage vs. Rotation'''<br>''(Pre-run Testing)''<br>• Using the Extech 411 RMS Multimeter and the AGPtek Professional Digital Laser Photo Tachometer, I will measure the root mean square value of the induced voltage as a function of rotation speed.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 126 of 176.png||'''Electric Current'''<br>''(Run Testing)''<br>• During the test run, I will use the Extech 411 RMS Multimeter to measure the root mean square value of the induced current.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 127 of 176.png||'''Thermometer'''<br>''(Tools)''<br>• To measure the temperature of the coil, I will use the DTQ450X Quick-Read Thermometer from CDN that I purchased through Amazon.com<br>• This thermometer has a range of -40° F to +450° F (or -40° C to +230° C)
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 128 of 176.png||'''Thermometer Accuracy'''<br>''(Pre-run Testing)''<br>• I must test the thermometer to see if it takes accurate readings<br>• First, I will test the temperature of the air near the drive motor.<br>• Then, after sanitizing the thermometer with 70% isopropyl alcohol wipes, I will test the temperature under my tongue, which should be about 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit or 37 degrees Centigrade.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 129 of 176.png||'''Before Temperature'''<br>''(Pre-run Testing)''<br>• After sanitizing the thermometer, I will insert the thermometer into one of the flat sections of the S.H.O. Drive Winding. I will also test the other three flat sections.<br>• I will take out the thermometer out during the duration test, and I will set up water and ice samples to test the thermometer with, again sanitizing between measurements.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 130 of 176.png||'''Duration Run'''<br>''(Run Testing)''<br>• I will test a duration run of the drive motor. In this test, I will measure the S.H.O. Drive’s:<br>• Root mean square current<br>• Wind Speed<br>• Air Temperature<br>• Coil Temperature<br>• Rotational Speed
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 131 of 176.png||'''Anemometer'''<br>''(Measuring Equipment)''<br>• During the test run, I will measure the air speed in front and rear of the S.H.O. Drive fan, using the OriGlam Digital Anemometer & Thermometer from OriGlam that I purchased through Amazon.com<br>• This anemometer can measure winds between 196 and 4900 ft/min (2.2 and 56 mph) (3.6 and 90 kph).
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 132 of 176.png||'''After Temperature'''<br>''(Post-Run Testing)''<br>• After the duration test, I will reinsert the thermometer into the S.H.O. Drive Winding into the same sections tested previously, again, sanitizing between measurements.
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| − | ==Phase 5: Heavy duty basket, S.H.O. Drive insertion, secure meters, and portable extended test run==
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 133 of 176.png||'''In Phase 5…'''<br>• First on the list is to prepare a heavy duty basket for holding the S.H.O. Drive.<br>• Second is to insert the S.H.O. Drive into place.<br>• Third is to secure the meters onto the basket.<br>• Fourth is to test and run the drive motor again as per procedure described in Phase 4.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 134 of 176.png||'''Crate'''<br>''(Phase 5 Parts)''<br>• Now to prepare for portable testing!<br>• I have purchased a Supreme Stacking Crate from IRIS USA through Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 135 of 176.png||'''Quality Parts'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• This crate from IRIS USA takes advantage one of the strongest engineering shapes, the triangle.<br>• The minimal material on the sides of the crate will minimize air flow disruption.<br>• The bottom also consists of minimal material, which allows for transparent viewing from beneath.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 136 of 176.png||'''Transparency'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• This durable, light-weight crate will enable operation of the S.H.O. Drive with the fan enclosed from every side (except the top).<br>• It helps that this crate is white, as it will maximize the ambient light inside the crate. This makes it easier to view (and record) what is inside.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 137 of 176.png||'''Wooden Panels'''<br>''(Compatibility)''<br>• The lattice of the crate will visually complement the “house shaped” wooden panels used in the support structure.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 138 of 176.png||'''Nylon Fasteners'''<br>''(Phase 5 Parts)''<br>• In order to prevent the S.H.O. Drive from sliding front-and-back inside the crate, I will insert pairs of Hillman 5/8" Nylon Cable Clamps from Lowes back-to-back, with their ends stuffed into small square holes at the floor of the crate.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 139 of 176.png||'''Protective Edge Trim'''<br>''(Parts)''<br>• In order to prevent side-to-side movement of the S.H.O. Drive, I will use U Shape Car Door Edge Guard Trim from CarBeyondStore at Amazon.com at the floor of the crate.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 140 of 176.png||'''Protective Edge Trim'''<br>''(Parts)''<br>• This protective edge trim is clear so as to be visually non-intrusive.<br>• It will be cut into measured pieces and adhered to various sections on the crate.<br>• It will secure the S.H.O. Drive laterally, but not vertically.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 141 of 176.png||'''Angled Base Blocks'''<br>''(Compatibility)''<br>• Now it is time to insert the S.H.O. Drive into the crate!<br>• By angling the base blocks by 45 degrees, the top of the fan area will be below the top of the crate.<br>• The tilt of the base blocks will also promote ambient light scattering as well as make it harder to conceal any hidden parts.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 142 of 176.png||'''Nylon Pipe Cleaners'''<br>''(Phase 5 Parts)''<br>• These nylon pipe cleaners go by the name Creativity Street Colossal Stems and I purchased them from an Artist & Craftsman Supply store. They are 19.5” (or about 50 cm) long.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 143 of 176.png||'''Rubber Holsters'''<br>''(Compatibility)''<br>• Both the Sinometer VC6243+ LC meter and the Extech 411 True-RMS Multimeter have (color-matching) kickstands as well as slots on their (color-matching) protective holsters intended for holding test leads.<br>• These features can be fastened to the crate horizontally and vertically with (color-matching) nylon pipe cleaners.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 144 of 176.png||'''Multi-hour Test'''<br>''(Testing)''<br>• The following will be tested:<br>• Resistance<br>• Inductance [ f(position) ]<br>• R.M.S. Voltage [ f(r.p.m.) ]<br>• Rotational Speed<br>• R.M.S. Current<br>• Temperature [ +references ]<br>• Refer to procedure laid out in Phase 4.
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| − | ==Phase 6: Square tote, plastic spools, protective edge trim, and enclosed extended test run==
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 145 of 176.png||'''In Phase 6…'''<br>• First on the list is to get a square tote that will be used to enclose the S.H.O. Drive inside.<br>• Second is to secure plastic spools together and secure them in the center-bottom of the square tote.<br>• Third is to insert protective edge trim on the handles.<br>• Fourth is to run an enclosed extended duration test.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 146 of 176.png||'''Square Tote'''<br>''(Phase 6 Parts)''<br>• In order to enclose the S.H.O. drive for the following test, I will use a Square Storage Box from The Container Store.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 147 of 176.png||'''Plastic Spools'''<br>''(Phase 6 Parts)''<br>• To better secure the Supreme Stacking Crate from IRIS USA inside the Square Storage Box, I will use the two plastic winding spools (from Phase 3) so I can elevate the crate closer to the lid of the box.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 148 of 176.png||'''Protective Edge Trim'''<br>''(Parts)''<br>• In order to secure the spools together and to center the crate against the indentions on the lid of the box, I will use U Shape Car Door Edge Guard Trim from CarBeyondStore at Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 149 of 176.png||'''Analog Thermometers'''<br>''(Measuring Devices)''<br>• To measure the temperature inside and outside the tote during its operation, I purchased a 12-Pack of Sper Scientific 739520 Wall Thermometers from Sper Scientific via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 150 of 176.png||'''Temperature'''<br>''(Pre-run Testing)''<br>• Before I run the device, I will apply some masking tape on each thermometer and write on each the location that each will be placed during the test.<br>• I will then place the thermometers near each other, and away from the windows, for a couple of minutes. Then I will compare their readings.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 151 of 176.png||'''Temperature'''<br>''(Continuous Testing)''<br>• During the continuous testing, I will record their temperature periodically on camera without moving them.<br>• To minimize data noise. I will keep the heater off and the windows and blinds closed. Preferably, clouds would be overcast during this period, or else I could choose to instead conduct the test overnight.<br>• I will put a thermometer wherever window blinds are missing.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 152 of 176.png||'''Temperature'''<br>''(Post-run Testing)''<br>• After the test run, these thermometers will be brought together once again away from the windows to show again for a couple of minutes to see if they give the same reading.
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| − | ==Phase 7: Prepare elevated test platform, outdoor test setup, camcorder hookup to portable power, and outdoor extended test run==
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 153 of 176.png||'''In Phase 7…'''<br>• First is to prepare a stable platform to attach the S.H.O. Drive.<br>• Second is to arrange a place outside to run an extended duration test.<br>• Third is to the connect a portable power supply to run the camcorder outdoors for an extended period of time (several hours).<br>• Fourth is to run an outdoor extended duration test.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 154 of 176.png||'''Music Stand'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• To provide an elevated structure to secure the S.H.O. Drive, I purchased the Talent MUS-3 Heavy Duty Steel Fixed Base Music Stand from Talent at Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 155 of 176.png||'''Music Stand'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• Like many music stands, the angle of the desk can be adjusted 180 degrees.<br>• The tilt can be adjusted to aid viewing of the S.H.O. Drive from the bottom as well as the top.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 156 of 176.png||'''Music Stand'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• Unlike many music stands, the base is fixed and made of heavy gauge steel.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 157 of 176.png||'''Barbell Plate'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• In order to prevent the music stand from tipping over, I will lower its center of gravity.<br>• To do this, I will glide a barbell plate over the pole of the music stand to rest on the heavy duty base.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 158 of 176.png||'''Barbell Plate'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• This barbell plate is the 45 pound (or 10 kilogram) CAP Barbell Olympic Grip Plate. I purchased it from CAP Barbell via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 159 of 176.png||'''Transparency'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• In order to provide an unobstructed view of the S.H.O. Drive, I will clamp Acrylic Tubes onto the desk of the music stand and then slide the crate, which holds the S.H.O. Drive, through these tubes.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 160 of 176.png||'''Acrylic Tubes'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• The ones I purchased are 72” (or about 180 cm) Long Acrylic Square Tubes from Plastic-Craft via Amazon.com<br>• This includes a 5-pack consisting of tubes ¼” (or about 6 mm) across and a 2-pack of tubes ½” (or about 13 mm) across
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 161 of 176.png||'''Laminate Scorer'''<br>''(Tools)''<br>• In order to split the 72” tubes in half, I purchased the OLFA 1090486 PC-L Plastic/Laminate Scorer from Olfa via Amazon.com.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 162 of 176.png||'''Tubes'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• In order to increase the rigidity of the tubes, I will apply a glue to bond the ¼” tubes alongside the ½” tubes.<br>• Then I will clamp them to the workbench and let them cure 1 hour.<br>• These tubes will later hold the S.H.O. Drive when it is operating.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 163 of 176.png||'''Tubes'''<br>''(Assembly)''<br>• The glue I will use to bond the ¼” and ½” Acrylic tubes together is the Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder which I purchased from Lowe’s.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 164 of 176.png||'''Acrylic Sheet'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• There will be four acrylic tube-pairs to secure.<br>• I will use the Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder to adhere these tubes to a Cast Acrylic Sheet from Small Parts via Amazon.com.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 165 of 176.png||'''C-Clamps'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• The tubes will slide tightly through the crate, securing the S.H.O. Drive into the crate, no matter the tilting angle.<br>• To secure the attached acrylic plate to the music stand, I will use a pair of 3 in. Industrial C-Clamps that I obtained from a Harbor Freight Tools store.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 166 of 176.png||'''Let’s Test the S.H.O. Drive Outside!'''<br><br>Caption: ''Just after I moved in to my studio apartment on September 2015, this orange “tag” appeared nearby, visible from my unit, in an area I pass by regularly. On July 26, 2015, I renamed the “S-Motor”, as it was called originally, to “S.H.O. Motor”.''
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 167 of 176.png||'''PREFERRED TEST LOCATION<br>Gas Works Park<br>2101 N Northlake Way, Seattle, WA 98103'''<br><br>Caption: ''The actual test location is yet to be determined. (April 18, 2016)''
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 168 of 176.png||'''Continuous Recording Outdoors'''<br>''(Protocols)''<br>• In order to record an outdoor test of extended duration, the camcorder (a sensitive electronic instrument) must be continually charged by an external supply of energy.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 169 of 176.png||'''AC-to-DC Adapter'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• To supply energy to the camcorder indefinitely when it is recording, its 3.6V battery must be charged through a special 5.3V power adapter designed for the camcorder.<br>• The adapter must be connected to a source of alternating current of standard voltage and frequency.<br>• Per the manual, the camcorder consumes around 3 watts when recording video, though this will depend on the camera settings.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 170 of 176.png||'''DC-to-AC Inverter'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• In order to supply energy to the adapter in the form of alternating current, I purchased the BESTEK 300W 12V to 110V AC Inverter from BESTEK via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 171 of 176.png||'''12V DC Battery Cables'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• In order to connect the inverter to a supply of 12V DC energy, I purchased a RoadPro 12V Battery Clip-On and Cigarette Lighter Adapter from RoadPro via Amazon.com<br>• These cables can support up to 10 amps at 12 volts DC.
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 172 of 176.png||'''12V Battery'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• For the 12V energy source, I purchased an ExpertPower 12V 7 Amp EXP1270 Rechargeable Lead Acid Battery from ExpertPower via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 173 of 176.png||'''12V Battery'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• This 12V battery is rated at 7 ampere-hours, based on 20 hours of steady electrical discharge.<br>• This means it can deliver 84 watt-hours of energy (or about 300 kilojoules) over a 20 hour period (an average of 4.2 watts).
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 174 of 176.png||'''Battery Enclosure'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• In order to protect the battery and inverter from the outside elements, I purchased the NOCO HM318BKS Group 24-31 Snap-Top Battery Box from NOCO via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 175 of 176.png||'''Tripod'''<br>''(Equipment)''<br>• To record stable video of the S.H.O. Drive from a distance, I will attach the camcorder to a 72” Tripod that I purchased from ButterflyPhoto via Amazon.com
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| − | |Let's Build the S.H.O. Drive! - Slide 176 of 176.png||'''Multi-hour Test'''<br>''(Testing)''<br>• The following will be tested:<br>• Resistance<br>• Inductance [ f(position) ]<br>• R.M.S. Voltage [ f(r.p.m.) ]<br>• Rotational Speed<br>• R.M.S. Current<br>• Temperature [ +references ]<br>• Refer to procedure laid out in Phase 4.
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| − | [[#toctitle|Click here if you need to jump back to the table of contents!]]
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