Difference between revisions of "Presentation"

Let’s Build The
S.H.O. Drive
• This ^is a guide to a series of videos where I will construct the world’s first S.H.O. Drive. This will be the first drive motor in the world to have a coil that looks like an S, or an H, or an O, depending on which side you look from. S.H.O. also stands for “Side Hung Over”. What good is this for? The best way to know is to build one yourself and show it! So let’s begin! 

Measuring Devices
(Equipment)
• This project involves many measuring devices, including analog and digital thermometers, a laser tachometer, a Milli-Ohm meter, an RMS meter, a LC meter, an Anemometer, a magnetic pole detector, and a metal detector. 

Rechargeable Batteries
(Energy)
• Some of these devices come with non-rechargeable batteries. When these run out, they will need to be replaced.
• Where possible, rechargeable batteries will be used after the old batteries are used up. 

Non-Rechargeable Batteries
(Energy)
• Some of the measuring devices require watch-type batteries, so for these devices, non-rechargeable batteries will be used. 

Fuses
(Equipment)
• Most multimeters have built-in fuses. These fuses are designed to burn out when overheated due to excessive current.
• So as a matter of preparation, I have purchased compatible replacement fuses. 

20 Amp Fuses
(Equipment)
• For 20 Amp protection, I purchased a 2-pack of Bussmann BP/ABC-20 20 Amp Fast Blow Fuses from Bussmann via Amazon.com 

200 Milliamp Fuses
(Equipment)
• For 200 mA protection, I purchased a 5-pack of Bussmann GMA 200mA Fast-Blow Fuses from Divine Lighting via Amazon.com 

Fire Extinguisher
(Equipment)
• In a worst-case scenario, the project may catch on fire due to overheating.
• To reduce the losses associated with such a fire, I must have a fire extinguisher at hand. 

Fire Extinguisher
(Equipment)
• So for basic safety requirements, I purchased the Amerex B500, 5lb ABC Dry Chemical Class A B C Fire Extinguisher from Amerex via Amazon.com 

Safety Gear
(Equipment)
• For safety, I purchased SAS safety goggles, an SAS First Aid Kit, and FastCap Skins Gloves, which I found in extra large.
• I purchased these and more at a wood-working specialty store called Woodcraft. 

Safety Gear
(Equipment)
• Since my wood-working operations will be limited to sanding and drilling small holes and grooves, I will use a Western Safety Dust and Particle Mask so as to not inhale any saw dust.
• I purchased this from a Harbor Freight Tools store. 

Visual Evidence
(Protocols)
• After the S.H.O. Drive is built, tests will follow.
• The plan is to run extended duration tests, some which will run for hours, and others for days.
• An appropriate video recording device is required to provide a visual record for these tests as they happen. 

Camcorder
(Recording)
• To provide evidence for these tests, I have purchased a Canon VIXIA HF R60 Camcorder from Canon via Amazon.com 

Camcorder
(Recording)
• This camcorder can record up to 12 hours at normal recording speed and also has a time-lapse function to record video over several days, or more.
• It can capture video at 60 progressive frames per second. 

Memory Card
(Recording)
• In order to record and save very long videos, I purchased the Transcend 128GB SDXC Class 10 UHS-1 Flash Memory Card from Transcend via Amazon.com 

Adjustable Clamp Mount
(Recording)
• To record video at the desired angle, I have purchased the 13.4" Smatree Adjustable Jaws Flex Clamp Mount from Smatree via Amazon.com 

Wide Angle Lens Kit
(Recording)
• In order to capture a wider angle of view in the video, I purchased a Wide Angle Lens Kit from ButterflyPhoto via Amazon.com
• The included .43x Wide Angle Lens provides a better approximation of human vision. 

In Phase 1…
• First on the list is to create holes which will hold bearings for the S.H.O. Drive.
• Second is to install brass hinges which will connect the wood panels to the wood base.
• And third is to install square nuts onto the shaft. 

2 Barn Birdhouse Kits
(Phase 1 Parts)
• The wood panels I will be using will come from 2 SawDust Bros. Birdhouse Kits which I obtained from Woodcraft.
• Why birdhouse kits? Well each birdhouse kit is packed with many pieces of wood of various sizes, which I may use in the future. 

Saving Time
(Protocols)
• But the main reason why I purchased two Birdhouse kits was for the two front panels, which have holes that are nearly the right size for the project.
• I will use the front panels from each kit as support structures to carry the weight of the bearings, rotor, and conductive copper coils. 

Hole Size
(Compatibility)
• Each front panel already has a conveniently placed 1½”‘‘‘
(or about 38 mm) hole which I will expand by 1/8”‘‘‘
(or about 3 mm) to hold the bearings.
• The bearings will be introduced in Phase 2.
• Each front panel has a base side measurement of 6”‘‘‘
(or about 150 mm). Also, they have a thickness of ½”‘‘‘
(or about 13 mm). 

Circle Template
(Phase 1 Tools)
• To mark the dimensions for the 1 5/8 ” (or about 41 mm) bearing holes, I bought a 42 circle template sheet by Timely from a specialty store called Artist & Craftsman Supply. 

Power Drill
(Phase 1 Tools)
• To expand the holes for the bearings, I purchased an inexpensive rotary tool from Ferm via Amazon.com. 

Portable Work Bench
(Equipment)
• I purchased from Black & Decker the WM125 Workmate through Amazon.com, which is foldable and has an adjustable width.
• The clamping wood pieces have a groove which, fortuitously, can hold the depth guide of the power drill. So this work bench will effectively function as an inexpensive “router table”. 

Dremel Accessory Set
(Phase 1 Tools)
• In order to finish the holes nicely to size, I will attach items from the Dremel 687-01 General Purpose Accessory Set I purchased at Fry’s Electronics. 

Sanding Bands & Drum
(Phase 1 Tools)
• The Dremel tools from the kit that I will use are the 432 Sanding Bands and the 407 Sanding Drum.
• The sanding area will be ½” (or about 13 mm) thick, which will be perfect for sanding into the ½” (or about 13 mm) thick wood panels which will hold the bearings. 

Plywood Surface
(Equipment)
• To make better use of the workbench for the rest of the project, I will cover the top with two pieces of Baltic Birch plywood from Woodcraft:
• The side lengths are 12” (or about 30 cm)
• The thickness of each is 1/2” (or about 13 mm) 

C-Clamps
(Equipment)
• To hold the plywood to the workbench, I will use 3 in. Industrial C-Clamps that I obtained from a Harbor Freight Tools store. 

Ash Wood Blocks
(Phase 1 Parts)
• I also have two separate Ash wood blocks, also from Woodcraft that are about 2 inches by 2 inches thick. That’s about 50 millimeters on each side. Their length is about 8 inches long, or about 200 millimeters. These blocks will serve as the “feet” of the S.H.O. Drive.
• If you’re wondering what Ash wood is used for, it’s a wood often used in baseball bats. 

Brass Hinges
(Phase 1 Parts)
• So how should I attach these panels to the base blocks? Well I could simply glue and nail these panels to the base like a normal person. But here I will do something different.
• From Woodcraft, I purchased these brass hinges, which I will use to attach the panels onto the ash wood blocks. 

Transparency
(Protocols)
• I am a bit extra-concerned about the craftsmanship of this effort, and it would obviously be simpler to glue and nail the pieces together. But I place more value in reducing the possible ways that are available to “trick” this device. 

Transparency
(Protocols)
• Furthermore, the device, when completed will be left uncovered and exposed to the surrounding elements and operated in multiple environments to reduce the number ways to trick this device. 

Transparency
(Protocols)
• I do want this device to be well-built enough to operate even when transporting it, to better distinguish it from rather immobile devices which, who knows, could be powered by an object hiding behind a wall or some other structure in the room. 

Metal Spring Clamps
(Equipment)
• Before drilling the pilot holes for the brass screws, I will clamp the Ash wood base blocks with Bessey XM7 3-Inch Metal Spring Clamps that I purchased from Woodcraft. 

Power Drill
(Recap)
• Earlier in this construction Phase, I will have used a rotary tool from Ferm and the Dremel 407 Sanding Drum to make neat circular holes for the bearings. 

Compact Power Drill
(Tools)
• However, to drill pilot holes for the brass screws, I will use an 18 Volt Cordless 3/8 in. Drill by Drill Master from Harbor Freight Tools. 3/8 in. is about 9.5 millimeters. 

Drill Bits
(Tools)
• I also purchased a set of 3/32 in. Titanium Nitride High Speed Steel Drill Bits by Warrior from Harbor Freight Tools.
• These will allow to me drill pilot holes into the Ash wood base blocks for the screws. 

Brass Screws
(Parts)
• After drilling the pilot holes, I will screw the hinges tight with HighPoint Solid Brass Screws that I purchased from Woodcraft.
• These are size #6 so they have a diameter of 5/16 in. (or about 8 mm) measured at the shank. The shank is the straight section next to the head of each screw. 

Screw Driver Set
(Tools)
• To tighten the screws through the brass brackets which connect the wood panels to the wood base, I purchased an iWork 53 piece Tool Set by Olympia Tools from Fry’s Electronics. 

Square Nuts and Rod
(Phase 1 Parts)
• And finally, the simplest task in Phase 1 is to install these threaded square nuts onto a threaded steel rod. 

Square Nuts and Rod
(Phase 1 Parts)
• These are zinc plated and have a fitting diameter of 5/8” (or about 16 mm) and have 11 threads per inch (11 TPI). I obtained these from Tacoma Screw.
• Their diameter matches the size for the bore hole of the fan, which I will describe in further detail in Phase 4. 

Neo Magnets
(Compatibility)
• These square nuts have a side length of 1” (or 25.4 mm). This is useful because the very strong Neodymium magnets that I will use for this project have imperial measurements whose thickness is ½” (or 12.7 mm). So these magnets will bond straight and level with the square nuts solely through their magnetic attraction, and no glue will be necessary on the magnets themselves. 

Bonding the Square Nuts
(Assembly)
• I will secure the position of the square nuts onto the shaft with a special-purpose glue called Loctite Threadlocker Red 271, which I purchased at Lowe’s.
• This is necessary so that the torque applied to magnet will transfer to the shaft. 

In Phase 2
• First on the list is to assemble a rotor of neodymium magnets onto the shaft.
• Second on the list is to insert the rotor through the bearings securely into the disassembled wooden panels.
• And third is to reattach the wood panels back onto the wood base blocks. 

Neodymium Magnets
(Phase 2 Parts)
• We will need no windings on the rotor of the S.H.O. Drive. Instead the rotor of the S.H.O. Drive will be built using very strong magnets.
• These magnets are an alloy of three atomic elements:
• Neodymium (or Nd) (the 60th atomic element)
• Boron (or B)
(the 5th atomic element)
• Iron (or Fe)
(the 26th atomic element) 

Neodymium Magnets
(Phase 2 Parts)
• These Neodymium magnets are from Magnet4less.com and are pound-for-pound some of the strongest permanent magnets that you yourself can buy on the market today.
• These are often used in making wind turbine generators. 

Neodymium Magnets
(Phase 2 Parts)
• Because these permanent magnets possess a stronger magnetic field, they will exert stronger magnetic forces on currents in S.H.O. coil.
• In turn, the current in the wires will be able to exert stronger magnetic forces on these permanent magnets. 

Securing the Shaft
(Protocols)
• To secure the shaft into place, I will thread some extra square nuts temporarily onto the shaft and clamp them down onto the Black & Decker Workmate with the Bessey XM7 3-Inch Metal Spring Clamp that I obtained from inside a Woodcraft store. 

Magnetic Pole Detector
(Measuring Equipment)
• Before I attempt to attach the magnets to the rotor, I will identify the north pole of each magnet with a Magnetic Pole Detector that I purchased from Magnet4Less.com 

Magnetic Rotor
(Assembly)
• 20 Large Neodymium magnets with dimensions of 3/2” x 3/4” x 1/2” (or about 38mm x 19mm x 13mm) will be stacked like Jenga blocks to form the rotor.
• 8 Small Neodymium magnets with dimensions of 3/4” x 1/4” x 1/2” (or about 19mm x 6mm x 13mm) will be stacked in between the large Neodymium magnets.
• Together these will form a flush fit around the 3/2”x1”x1” (or about 38mm x 25mm x 25mm) square nut assembly, resulting in a magnetic rotor assembly measuring 6” (or about 150mm) long with square poles faces measuring 3/2” (or 38mm) a side. 

Wood Panels
(Disassembly)
• I will unscrew the hinges off of the wood panels, enabling insertion of the shaft and bearings into the panel holes. 

Bearings
(Phase 2 Parts)
• I ordered shielded ball bearings from VXB at Amazon.com. These bearings are rated as having electric motor quality and will carry the weight of the shaft.
• These bearings should fit snuggly into the holes carved into the wood panels. 

Inserting the Rotor
(Assembly)
• After that, I will insert the rotor assembly, through the installed bearings.
• Then I will fasten the wood panels back onto to the base blocks. 

In Phase 3…
• First on the list is to make a custom rectangular spool for winding copper wire.
• Second is to make the two S.H.O. coils by winding copper wire around the rectangular spool, and then carefully (and separately) bending each of these coils into the shape of an S.
• And third is to install each completed S.H.O. coil onto the ceiling hooks to be installed on the wood panels. 

Magnet Wires
(Phase 3 Parts)
• The coils will be made out of a pair of copper wire spools I purchased from Tech-Fixx through Ebay.com designed for use in electromagnets.
• These are known as magnet wires. 

Magnet Wires
(Phase 3 Parts)
• These are size 12 gauge on the American Wire Gauge scale. Each coil has approximately 100 feet (or 30 meters) of wire, and together they will form a ½” (or 13 mm) thick bundle of copper with a combined resistance of approximately 0.3 ohms, or less than 1/3rd of an ohm.
• These Essex Soderon 155 wires have a temperature rating of 311 degrees Fahrenheit or 155 degrees Centigrade. 

Hole Diameter
(Compatibility)
• The magnet wire came with spools whose hole diameter fits well with a 5/8” diameter threaded rod, which in turn can also fit holes in the Black & Decker WM125 Workmate. So I will use this to my advantage when unwinding these spools. 

S.H.O. Drive
(Design)
• Unlike any other drive motor in on the market today, the S.H.O. Drive will possess a pair of rectangular conductive windings each folded in such a way to look like the letter S, the letter H, or the letter O, depending how on viewed. 

Custom Spool
(Assembly)
• Each copper spool will be wound into a rectangle winding with inside dimensions of 24” by 2¼” (or 610 mm by 57 mm).
• Then each winding will be carefully folded into the final form of the S.H.O. coil.
• Since a spool of these dimensions will be very hard to find on the market, if it exists at all, I will have to make it custom. 

Mailing Tube
(Equipment)
• The spool will be made out of a 25” (or about 635 mm) long section of a cardboard mailing tube. Pairs of notches ½” (or about 13 mm) deep will be cut into each end, and the wire will be wound through the resulting 24” by 2¼” (or about 610 mm by 57 mm) inner perimeter.
• The tube originally contained square acrylic tubes I ordered from Plastic-Craft (Phase 7). 

Nylon Fasteners
(Phase 3 Tools)
• To keep the copper winding bundle tight when curving it to the desired S-curve, several Hillman 3/8" Nylon Cable Clamps from Lowes will be fastened temporarily on the bundle using Hillman Nylon 10-24 Wingnuts and Screws also from Lowe’s. 

Curved Ruler
(Tools)
• I must ensure that the long side of the 24”x2¼” conductive winding has the correct form of S curve.
• So I will be using a 24”(or 610 mm) Flexible Curved Ruler by Staedtler that I purchased from inside an Artist & Craftsman Supply store. 

S.H.O. Coils
(Assembly)
• The two S.H.O. Coils will be spread apart at the middle section of the S curve to make space for the shaft in between. 

Curved Ruler
(Tools)
• The 12 American Wire Gauge copper wire is significantly rigid by itself, and it will be even more so when approximately 22 turns of such wire are bundled together in each S.H.O. coil
• Therefore I have used the 24” (or 610 mm) Flexible Curved Ruler by Staedtler, which is stiff in its own right, to trace various models for the S Curve of the S.H.O. Coils. 

Visualis Electromagnetism
(Software)
• To digitally render the optimized shape for the S.H.O. coils, I used Microsoft Excel to overlay an XY plot chart over a scan of a desired model for the S Curve and adjusted the X and Y values to match the curve.
• Then using Excel Functions, I produced the code for a
•.viz file which I imported into Visualis Electromagnetism (from visualis-physics.com). 

Tubing Bender
(Phase 3 Tools)
• To form the S curves of the S.H.O. Coils, I will use a 1/4”-3/8” Tubing Bender by Pittsburgh from Harbor Freight Tools. 

Tubing Bender
(Phase 3 Tools)
• To hold the tubing bender to the workbench, I will use 3 in. Industrial C-Clamps that I obtained from a Harbor Freight Tools store. 

Ceiling Hooks
(Phase 3 Parts)
• To hold the winding into the desired configuration, I purchased 7/8” vinyl-coated ceiling hooks from Arrow Hardware through Amazon.com.
• These hooks are about the right size to hold each winding separately. They can also be turned as needed to conform to the S curves of the S.H.O. coils. 

Wood Panels
(Disassembly)
• Before I can drill pilot holes onto the wood panels for the ceiling hooks, I must unscrew the hinges from the wood panels, set aside the wood base blocks, and then pull out the panels off the bearings. 

Ceiling hooks
(Assembly)
• To drill pilot holes for the ceiling hooks, I will again use the 18 Volt Cordless 3/8 in. Drill by Drill Master that I purchased inside a Harbor Freight Tools store. 

Bundle Diameter
(Compatibility)
• Each of the two S.H.O. Coils should have a bundled cross-section of about 3/8” inch (or 10 mm) in diameter consisting of approximately 22 turns of 12 American Wire Gauge (or 2 mm diameter) wire.
• The openings in the ceiling hooks are 1/3” (or 8 mm) across. Therefore, the coils will be securely held into place by the hooks. 

Electrical Tape
(Parts)
• To provide an additional electrical barrier and thermal protection between the windings and the hooks, I will be using Scotch Professional Grade 35 Red Vinyl Electrical Tape that I purchased at Lowe’s. 

Drill Bits
(Phase 3 Tools)
• I have purchased a set of 7/64 in. Titanium Nitride High Speed Steel Drill Bits by Warrior from Harbor Freight Tools.
• These will allow to me drill pilot holes into the wood panels for the ceiling hooks. 

S.H.O. Coils
(Assembly)
• After I make the S.H.O coils and install the ceiling hooks, I will slide the wood panels back on the bearings, and then screw them back onto the base hinges.
• Then I will insert the S.H.O. Coils into the ceiling hooks. 

Wire Connector & Sandpaper
(Phase 3 Parts & Tools)
• In order to connect the coils together in series, I will be using Utilitech Plastic Standard Wire Connectors (Item no. 48630) and 3M 600 Grit sandpaper from Lowe’s.